So over the weekend I escaped to the magical land of Bretagne to meet Roland's grandparents, aunt, uncle, and cousins. To say I was nervous is an understatement. It's unbelievably frustrating to make a good impression in a second language, but that is the story of my life this summer. I realize that I am a completely different person under my French-speaking identity. Let's just say French-speaking Sylvia is not nearly as a intelligent as English-speaking Sylvia, but a great deal smilier and noddier. (No, not naughtier, though sometimes I wish that were the case.)
But back to Bretagne! First off all, shout out to Roland's dad for giving me a chance to see another part of France besides Paris. This region of France is so incredibly different and delightful. I would have been sad to have missed out on experiencing such a gorgeous and interesting side of the country.
After a long and transcendently beautiful drive we arrived at Roland's grandparents' home well into the evening. They live in a gorgeous, old stone home surrounded by hydrangeas and the most delightful smelling flowers in the world. From the moment I met his grandparents I could immediately see their features in Roland. It's always a curious experience, and one I can never get over. I now see that Roland gets his gangly body from his grandfather, bearing an uncanny resemblance to both of his grandparents.
In the morning Roland's dad got us up bright and early to accompany him for a shopping excursion through town. The old stone buildings felt so typically French and timeless that I thought I might cry. We bought candies, un far breton (the heaviest dessert ever), and fresh flowers from une fleuriste.
My social skills were once again put to the test. We drove out to Bringnogan to Roland's aunt and uncle's beach house for a family lunch with his cousins and their small children. I think I passed the test, but I'm not sure. In any case I'm skinny and pretty enough to be passable for Roland, so at least I have that going for me. ;) I ate fresh-caught fish straight from the ocean, and I finally got to try foie gras for the first time (so good). Roland's uncle is Breton and an expert fisherman, so needless to say our meal was extraordinary.
After lunch Roland's dad walked out to the water with us (less than five minutes from their house) and took in the most exquisite scenery of my life. I'm used to seeing beautiful waters in the context of more modern cities, but this was unparalleled. All of the stone homes surrounding the water create this timeless feeling, like you're stepping back into history (and in a lot of ways you really are).
Photo time!
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| This is what I mean by timeless. |
The next day we woke up early and drove through the most majestic landscape to Huelgoat grotto and forest. I definitely felt the pagan magic as we descended deep within an ancient grotto and felt the cool mists of the underground waterfalls.
We hiked a good deal, perhaps where Roman soldiers had once dared to wander under thick, disorienting greenery and boulders. Now, my name means "of the forest," and I have always felt a deep connection to the mountain forests in Utah. But this? I don't think I have ever experienced such beauty in my life. The forests have such a spirit about them, and I definitely felt like a pagan goddess as I roamed through these fairy-infested woods.
The photos here won't do it justice:
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| Trolland and the Three Billy Goats Gruff |
After a long day of hiking I had my first Sarasin crêpe, and... oh. my. goodness. I will never be able to go back to any old crêpe again. It was literally the best thing I have ever eaten in my life. I will definitely need to go back before I die just so I can partake of at least one more. Seriously, changed my life.
On the way home we passed through several different villages and looked through beautiful, preserved churches. One place we stopped was called Locronan, and part of this village is built on a bridge and suspended over a large river. Every place we visited felt as if we were stepping back in time, and the beauty was truly indescribable.
The next morning we walked through the moors to a chapel that had once been buried in sand. Though I wasn't in the English countryside, I felt as if we were Catherine and Heathcliff walking through this vast, desolate space. I honestly could not believe the beauty of all of the landscapes we visited. Bretagne is definitely one of the most beautiful, magical, mysterious places in the world.
On our journey back to Paris, Roland's dad asked if I wanted to take a detour to Mount Saint Michel, to which I obviously said yes. Ever since I can remember I have watched videos and documentaries in French classes on this magnificent feudal structure. It's cool to ascend and see how you have the markets and houses, then the great halls, and finally the monastery, representing God. We were able to watch the tide as it rose, seemingly endless in the vast landscape surrounding it.
After a full day of driving we finally made it back to Paris, so strikingly different compared to the landscape I had just experienced, but I was happy to be back. Roland's dad took us to Chinese food near my apartment and then we called it a day/weekend. It was a memorable, beautiful experience, and I am so grateful to have seen such a magical part of France.
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